RESILIENT

🌊 24-Hour Buoy is Telling a Story 🌊 A powerful west-northwesterly swell headed toward California’s Central Coast this weekend! The NOAA offshore marine buoy Station 46059, located approximately 357 nautical miles west of San Francisco, recorded a 29.5-foot significant wave height with periods of 16 to 18 seconds from the west-northwest this morning. This remote sentinel in the Pacific Ocean is often called the “24-hour buoy” because it takes about 24 hours for long-period, high-energy swell trains observed here to reach California’s Central Coast. Farther north, other offshore marine buoys have recorded significant wave heights exceeding 30 feet, with periods ranging from 16 to 19 seconds, indicating an exceptionally energetic North Pacific swell event. What does this mean for the Central Coast? A powerful 14- to 16-foot west-northwesterly swell (285-degree deep-water direction), with periods of 17 to 19 seconds, is forecast to arrive Saturday morning, November 14. These predicted wave heights are for the Diablo Canyon Waverider buoy. Offshore buoy readings may be substantially higher, while northwest-facing beaches and exposed coastal areas could experience even larger breaking waves because of wave shoaling and local bathymetry. Adding to the concern, actual high tides are expected to approach 6 feet late Saturday morning, coinciding with the arrival of this powerful swell. ⚠️ Coastal Safety Reminder: Long-period swells carry tremendous energy and can produce dangerous shore breaks, powerful rip currents, and unexpected sneaker waves. Large waves may surge much farther up beaches and across rocky shorelines than anticipated. Please use extreme caution along exposed beaches, coastal bluffs, rocks, and jetties this weekend. Never turn your back on the ocean! – at Los Osos, CA