“Menswear Socrates” IG: https://xitter.cf/t.co/4nDPEcA9F8 Shopmy: https://xitter.cf/t.co/pcMDb7cxPr

Joined October 2021
THE FALL SHOPPING GUIDE: PT II Another batch of 250 picks. I shopped the market and pulled only what’s worth your time—plus a full report on where I see the market moving. rfkenmore.substack.com/p/the…
The Fall Shopping Guide (Pt 1) is live I think I said 200, but it ended up being 250. *** “From sub-$10 socks to spendy Loro Piana Storm System outerwear to a few vintage items that might spark a fruitful hunt.” *** “We’re only in August, which means we have much more still to see” rfkenmore.substack.com/p/the…
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Many such cases
Replying to @rfkenmore
Because no one’s buying a $1500 jacket😂😂
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Buck Mason store director caught the Invisible Espresso bug 😭😭
The Invisible Espresso continues on into F26....
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Fixed
Bayağı doğru
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J.Crew showing shades of the Japanese vanguard: Auralee and A.Presse
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Aaron Levine too:
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Every year lately I see fairisle vests roll out and think the *idea* of one sounds quite additive to my life. But I never do anything about it. These from J. Press are making me tell myself the same thing (I'll do nothing).
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Ralph Lauren Patchwork Oilcloth Jacket (Banger) just landed and is already 25% off To my earlier point about shopping with retailers vs. brands go.shopmy.us/p-97385347
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Something to know and exploit in the world of shopping: The best deals are generally always through retailers. A multibrand retailer has more reasons to replace a product, where a brand has more reasons to preserve its price. They operate on inventory “turn” and open dollars (free cash) for “chasing” replenishment from vendors since they have so many at the same time. Brands on the other hand are trying to balance that with optics and perception around brand and valuable product franchises. Eg. this is why Buck Mason refuses to discount. But (hypothetically) Mr. Porter wouldn’t hesitate to slash products to extract cash from slow movers, if it meant funding green shoots elsewhere. Exception at brand is when they’re looking to sunset a style/program on a finite window. They’re generally going to do what it takes to get clean for whatever the replacement is.
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Adsum dropped Fall this week (just in time for Winter)
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Fact check myself: they're calling it Fall/Winter**
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Many hated the cableknit rugby. Some hate sweater rugbies in general. Others have questions about rugbies of any kind at all. But how about a quarter-zip rugby? (No.)
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Madewell continues to come into its own as the work of former Buck Mason product lead shines. Can now see a clear POV crystalizing at the brand—with solid items to shop and the clearest separation from its sister brand (J.Crew) that I can remember. It's one of the best come-ups in this segment over the past year IMO. Only funny thing? The guy responsible already exited the brand lmao. ----- Collared Jacket: go.shopmy.us/p-97388850 Sweater: go.shopmy.us/p-97388635 Hoodie: go.shopmy.us/p-97388225 Suede Trucker: go.shopmy.us/p-97388384 All new: go.shopmy.us/p-97388948
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Bros will spend $6k/mo for a 1BR downtown and live like this:
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Reading Rfkenmore.substack.com would go crazy here
So sick. Thanks apple.
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A good quirk of guys getting deeper into clothes is calling sweaters “knits” Sweaters are knitted, but knitting is just construction. Polos are knits. T-Shirts are knits. (There’s a nuance of cut and sew vs. full fashioned) ABC Pants actually use knitted fabric. Internal biz architecture often houses polos, tees, thermals, henleys etc. all under “knit tops” as a bucket. And “sweaters” are filed as “sweaters.”
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Aside: Sweaters are actually so distinct (and specialized) from general knit tops that brands will hire pure sweater designers in cases where the exceptional expertise is desired
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Peter Millar launches $1,000 “first fleece” cashmere made in UK. “First” means cashmere fibers collected from the goats’ first combings. Diameter can be 13 microns. Typical ski/outdoor layers are usually 18 microns.
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Not to mention, more textured knits. This using a rib stitch (and heathered yarn) for visual interest go.shopmy.us/p-96658861
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Apex passport bro gear just dropped
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Everyone got split toes on my feed Why don’t you?
THE FALL FOOTWEAR GUIDE Over 120 of the best shoes to wear now—plus guest picks from dialed-in friends in the industry. *** “…which I fantasize about anytime I stop by Kevin’s down in Thomasville, GA.” *** “I don’t see anything earth shattering happening in footwear this Fall, which I actually think is a good thing.” *** “…he previously held Head of Design roles at RRL and Buck Mason.” Rfkenmore.substack.com
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