Co-host DieWorkwear! podcast. Photographer. Writer. IBEW Inside Wireman. US Director Plaza Uomo
San Francisco, CA
Joined March 2010
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This is me #ibew #uniondrip
Love your work Derek, but why always refer to @urban_comp as an electrician, when he's also director of a menswear mag, a photographer, and used to work in tech. Just feels a little disengenious, like he's just any ol' tradesman that happens to be into menswear.
For those interested in tailoring, here are two tailors I have used that will be visiting outside the US: Istanbul, Frankfurt, Munich, and Copenhagen:
The second is Vittorio Salino from Florence. This video shows how he adjusts the pattern for my wonky body and showcases a Florentine speciality: a side seam (hidden by the sleeve) to shape the front in lieu of a front dart. This allows for an unbroken cloth pattern
This is a topic that most ppl are glossing over. High quality ethically made yarn of noble fibers is very expensive. If knitwear is then made ethically in expensive countries (Scotland, Ireland, Italy, etc) it is only reasonable to expect a high price.
Autumn temperatures are perfect for a velvet sport coat. From @SextonBespoke cut in their house style based on Tommy Nutter & Edward Sexton’s historic jackets for the Beatles & J Cocker, meant to be worn casually. Attached is a video of the 1st fitting.
can a velvet jacket ever be casual? @urban_comp experiments with a brown velvet sport coat that rides the line between elegant evening wear and sporty afternoon sport coat. cutter is nina penlington of edward sexton
I realize this isn’t for everyone, but I love this look from Kyosuke Kunimoto, who does bespoke and ready to wear suits with a groovy, rock and roll 70s aesthetic.
Most half zip sweaters have sad, wimpy collars, but if you must get one, look for one with a chunky collar like this polo from Studio Nicholson. Practically outerwear, it’s made from a chunky merino/yak blend and has a beefy collar that can be worn up or down
Josh Homme of Kyuss, Queens of the Stone Age, Them Crooked Vultures, etc, walked for Ann Demeulemeester yesterday. That is all.
Forgive the wrinkles, but I love how this man looks so I asked to take a picture of him. Originally from Glasgow, he now lives in San Francisco & likes to wear suits “just because.”
A pair of bespoke shoes in process from Michelangelo Torre. Having learned in Italy, Japan, & finally as a lastmaker at London’s Cleverley, he makes the lasts himself by hand. US trunk show soon, if interested contact him on IG
_michelangelotorre_
Besides the history of misguided medicine, what makes this fabric special is not only the intriguing mix of pale khaki, dusty olive, and saturated crimson, with the effect that the outside resolves to a unique beige while the underside is a light brick red.
When @antoniolisa90 came to town, he measured me in person & sent a trial suit. We then did a fitting over video, I made some suggestions, & then shipped the suit back to Naples. The end result after modifications are almost perfect considering there were no in-person fitttings.
Back in the days of Tumblr, pictures of Italian industrialists, magnates, and fashion consiglieri were buckshotted around the internet and hit the #menswear universe with the delicate impact of a sledgehammer. Among the particularities was this unique cloth — Solaro
For the uninitiated, Solaro was invented over 100 years ago by Louis Westenra of the London School of Hygiene & Tropical Medicine to protect soldiers from UV radiation. Afterwards it became available to the general public through Smith Woollens, now produced by @harrisons1863
